DOTW: Iran

**PigtailsAndAll** · 05-06-2007, 10:50 PM

Iran is a vibrant country with a rich culture and one of the oldest histories in the world. Roughly one-fifth the size of the United States, it is a large country with a varied climate and geography; although predominantly arid and mountainous, it also has sub-tropical forests, deserts, plains and marshes.

Most people have no knowledge of Iran other than what is shown in the news, and because of sanctions and a bad relationship with the West, tourism doesn’t really exist as such in Iran anymore, although this is slowly changing. The lack of tourism is a great shame, because there are many areas of interest - the landscape, architecture and food, in my opinion, are some of the best in the world. Although I don’t know much about the tourist side of Iran, I have written down some basics and compiled a list of websites that will hopefully give anyone interested in going there more information, and perhaps even interest some people who had never given it much thought as a holiday destination. It really does have a lot to offer, and whatever your passion - the great outdoors, sport, history, architecture, art, food, shiny things - I am confident that there will be something for you to enjoy.

Because it is such a big country and there is so much to see and do, I will only be focusing on three major cities and their sights. I haven't been to the majority of the places written about here, so to make this post as short as possible, and because I don't think that words (mine, anyway) can do the place justice, I'm providing lots of links, to photos and to information pages. Please look at them, because they will include much more information than I have given. I would highly recommend starting here for a general overview of main cities (including some more tourist cities like Mashad and Yazd), customs and pretty much everything you need to know to holiday there. Please ask questions if you would like to know anything else! Also, please tell me if a link is inactive or broken, or if something doesn't make sense.

Here are some videos and photos so you can get a general feel of the place:
Photos set to music
Photos set to music (for both videos, ignore the politics – I don't want this post to be about that)
Rageh Omar's BBC4 Tehran documentary
An amazing photographer whose photos, to me, capture the spirit of Iran
Another great Iranian photographer
Tons of photos, including nature of Iran and pictures of historical sites
TIME photo essay
Photos from around Iran

If you just want to see some photos and don't want to click on the links, here is a selection of nature/landscape photos from skyscrapercity.com threads:

Spoiler

General information and tourist's perspectives/travel guides:

Lonely Planet Iran Forum – great place to ask questions
Virtual Tourist travel guide – very useful, lots of info and tips
An independent travel guide
Dutch couple's experiences of Iran
American couple's visits to Iran
Guardian travel article
Journal entry by guys on a London to Beijing bike tour
Second Iran journal entry, same guys
An Iranian-born American's trip backto Iran

Basics:

The official language is Persian. This is a good website if you are interested in learning the Persian language. http://www.easypersian.com/ Some useful words and phrases here and here.

Since 1979 Iran has been under Islamic rule. Alcohol, pork and pornography are illegal, so do not under any circumstances attempt to enter the country with those items. Although hand luggage is rarely checked, don't bring in something like Maxim or anything which is likely to have scantily-clad people in it.

Visa information. As stated in the website, US citizens must travel as part of a pre-booked, guided tour. This doesn't have to be in a group, you can get an individual guided tour, if you want to be more independent. There are links to tours and guides at the bottom of the post. You do not need a visa to visit Kish Island, but it's nowhere near as good as the mainland, unless you only want great beaches and scuba-diving, in which case go to Australia or something.

Women must wear a headscarf and a long coat, and men must not wear sleeveless shirts or short trousers. Although dress restrictions are usually relaxed somewhat, since April the government have cracked down again on dress, so exercise caution. Also, if visiting holy places, women must wear a chador, and men must wear long sleeved shirts. Chadors can often be borrowed on the door of mosques, so you don't have to buy one especially.

Currency is Iranian Rials; to find out the latest exchange rates go here. Although all the notes and coins are in rials, most Iranians use Toman, an old currency, when referring to prices or money in general. 1 Toman = 10 Rials. Prices shown in markets and shops are likely to be in Toman, but always ask if not sure. Credit cards are not widely accepted, so bring enough cash with you to exchange. It's best to bring US Dollars, Euros or Pound Sterling. You can exchange money at the airport, and at some banks. Be prepared to get a lot of notes! And separate your money so that you don't lose it all if you get pickpocketed (which is rare, but as anywhere, keep your wits about you).

It is best to avoid the borders with Iraq, Afghanistan and Pakistan; two wars, insurgents and drug-smuggling do not exactly make a holiday fun.

Be aware of public holidays. The Noruz (New Year) celebrations usually last for at least a week, despite what the guide says. During holidays not many places will be open, so it's not a good idea to travel then. Thursday-Friday is the weekend, so be prepared for things to either be shut (shops etc) or very busy (museums, parks and the like).

Vegetarians will probably find it difficult to eat here, and vegans will most likely starve. See more on the food of Iran here. The best way to eat an authentic meal is to go to somebody's house, and although it might sound crazy, a lot of tourists do get invited back to people's houses for lunch/dinner. Restaurant meals vary depending on the establishment, but you are likely to get a lot of kebab, rice and bread, which although delicious, do get a bit boring after a while. As for tapwater, it's safe to drink, but bottled water is also available if you're worried. Lots of people say to avoid street food when you go abroad, but I would say go for it in Iran – you can get lovely cold melon smoothie-type things, great pastries, and the best ice-cream ever. Persian food in general is completely and utterly delicious, so try out stuff!

Toilets are predominantly squat toilets. Iranians don't really use toilet paper, instead there is a hose on the side of the toilet that they use to wash themselves - so if you want toilet paper you will probably need to buy some from a shop. Most, if not all hotels will have western-style toilets.

If you're hoping to find good coffee, er, don't. Iran is a country of tea, even more so than good ol' Blighty, and good coffee is rare. Tehran should have some somewhere, but don't expect Starbucks or anything (instead you can go to traditional tea-houses, which are MUCH nicer).

Most major cities have internet cafes, although some sites are blocked. If you just Google 'Iran internet cafe' you will find some. Prices are very cheap.

Don't give a thumbs up to anybody. It's basically a 'fuck you', but worse.

Crossing the road, as seen in the Rageh Omar video, is scary, but that's just the way it is and you get the hang of it after a while. Crossings don't really get paid much attention to, at least in Tehran, so if you want to cross the road you kind of just have to walk out into the road and dodge cars.

Cities and Sights:

TEHRAN

About Tehran
Tehran Wikitravel
Map of Tehran (large image)
Random Tehran Photos

Tehran is the capital of Iran. Compared to other major Iranian cities, it's not one of the most beautiful, but it does have some real gems in the form of museums, palaces and beautiful parks. It is situated at the foot of the Alborz mountain range, which lends itself to some spectacular views.

Roads are congested, especially around rush hour, and the pollution is very bad. Unless you're very brave, or stupid, I wouldn't advise driving in Tehran (or any other city, actually). The roads are well-maintained, but the drivers are generally crazy. Public transport is good – towards the south of the city you have the metro, which runs to a lot of places, including the Tehran Bazaar. Cabs are also everywhere; shared cabs are the norm but you can also call for a private cab, or jump in a shared cab if it's empty and tell the driver "dar bast" (which literally means door closed). Obviously a private taxi or a 'dar bast' will be more expensive than a shared cab, but prices (as with the rest of Iran, even with grossly inflated tourist prices) are very cheap.

If you come from Mehrabad Airport, one of the first things you see will be the Azadi Tower (the white monument above). It takes about half an hour to get to the city centre from Mehrabad; from the new airport, Imam Khomeini International, it will take about an hour. Sights are spread over the capital but they are all pretty easy to get to, and most are in the centre.

Golestan Palace

Golestan Palace is the oldest historic monument in Tehran. Situated in the city centre, the complex is made up of museums, courtyards, and terraces. One of the main attractions include the Takht-e-Marmar (Marble Throne), a stunning terrace with paintings, marble-carvings, tile-work, stucco, mirrors, enamel, woodcarvings, and lattice windows. In the centre is the throne itself, which consists of sixty-five pieces of marble. There are also mirrored halls, mosaics, paintings and chinaware to view, so it's worth a visit. Some photos here.

Iranian Imperial Crown Jewels

If you love your bling, then you need to put this on your list. Jewel-encrusted crowns, tiaras, thrones and swords, along with a large number of loose precious gems make up this extensive collection, housed in the Central Bank of Iran. A highlight is the Darya-e-Noor (Sea of Light) diamond, which is very rare because of its pale pink colour. Weighing in at 182 carats, it is one of the largest diamonds in the world. You can see pictures of it, and a small part of the collection, here.

Niavaran Palace

Another palace complex, Niavaran Palace, has five museums and other attractions, including beautiful grounds. You can find paintings, carpets and artifacts here, and of course admire the art and architecture. Photos here.

Carpet Museum of Iran

As we all know, one of the things Iran is most famous for is its carpets. This museum showcases a variety of these, dating back from the 18th century. You can find out more at their website.

Grand Bazaar

According to Wikipedia, Tehran's Grand Bazaar is the largest bazaar in the world. You can get all kinds of stuff here, and it's great just to wander around. Another great place to go is Tajrish, in the north of Tehran; the bazaar there is also excellent, and it has a modern shopping centre there too, as well as being a major transportation hub. Both places are good for getting souvenirs, although make sure to haggle.

Parks

Tehran has lots of parks, but if you only have time for one, I recommend Jamshidieh Park. It's at the base of a mountain, and has hiking trails all the way up to the top, and as well having many tea houses and restaurants it has tons of benches which are perfect for picnics. It's a great way to spend some time, and the views over Tehran as you get higher up are amazing. Browse through photos of some of the parks, including Jamshidieh, here. There are also some better photos of Jamshidieh on this thread, but you have to scroll down a bit.

Mountains and Skiing

The ski resorts in Tehran are amongst the highest in the world, and most are relatively quick and easy to get to because of their proximity to Tehran. In fact, you can get the telecabin from Vajalak Street in north Tehran, which takes you just shy of the summit of Mount Tochal. Mount Tochal is 13,000ft high, and the ski resort itself is just over 12,000ft high, which makes it the fifth highest resort in the world. Other resorts include Dizin and Shemshak, both of which are more developed, and better for skiing than Tochal, but are further away from Tehran. Because of the altitude, the ski season here lasts longer and the dry air apparently makes for some great powder. It is extremely cheap to ski in Iran, so if you love the slopes then this could be a great place for you. Even if you don't enjoy snow-sports, taking a trip in the telecabin offers great views of the city and is also cheap to do. Find out more at Wikipedia.

ESFAHAN

About Esfahan
Esfahan Wikitravel
Flickr photos

As the old saying goes, "Esfahan, nesf-e-jahan" (Esfahan is half of the world). It is widely regarded as the most beautiful city in Iran, mostly due to the stunning architecture which can be seen everywhere from mosques, bridges, palaces and boulevards. As with other Iranian cities, the transport is very good, and cheap. It has a very relaxed vibe, and is one of the most popular tourist destinations in Iran.

Naghsh-e-Jahan (Imam) Square

The central square of Esfahan, Imam Square, is a truly magnificent place, and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Framed by archways and containing several of the cities most important monuments, it is an impressive sight, and one of the largest city squares in the world. In the centre of the square there is a formal garden, a fountain and a covered bazaar. Flickr has some great photos of the square, so take a look.

Imam Mosque

Situated on the south side of Imam Square, this building is considered to be the epitome of Persian architecture, and one of the best examples of medieval Islamic architecture. Read more about it here and see some amazing photos of the mosaics and archways at Horizon's Flickr page.

Jame Mosque

Jame (Friday) Mosque one of the oldest mosques in Iran, is one of the most impressive. Much of the present building dates back to the 11th Century, although the many renovations and additions to the mosque mean that it is a great way to see the evolution of Persian Architecture. Again, Horizon has managed to capture the beauty and symmetry of the designs in his Jame Mosque set. I dare you not to love the ceilings of this place! And the calligraphy!

Ali Qapu Palace

Yet another example of breathtaking, intricate art and architecture, Ali Qapu is internally decorated with many paintings of nature scenes, birds and people, although unfortunately many of these have been damaged. Some of the ceilings have ornate tracery detailing, whilst the music room on the sixth floor has elaborate plaster cut-out work, in the shape of vases, which adds to the acoustics as well as being incredibly easy on the eye. Look at more of the designs and colourful tile-work on Flickr. (I don't work for them, honestly! They just have the best photos.)

Chehel Sotoun
Chehel Sotoun, "forty pillars", is a palace that overlooks a long pool, in the middle of a park. The building itself only has twenty pillars, but when the building is reflected in the pool it shows forty pillars, hence the name. The view of the palace at night is incredible, as you can see here. Again, the paintings, ceilings and general structure of the place are well worth seeing, and again, please see some examples of them on Flickr.

Bridges

The river that runs through Esfahan, Zayandeh Rood, has quite a few bridges over it, the most famous being the 33 Pol, or Si-o-Seh Pol, which has 33 arches (no wai!), and which you can see above at the beginning of the Esfahan section. From my extensive readings of tourist experiences of Iran, one of the things that people enjoy most is sitting on the bridge, drinking tea. From the photos I've seen, I can imagine I would agree with them. How about you? Answers on a postcard, plz. Or just on the bottom of this post, or by pigeon, whatever. More bridges and photos of them here as well as photos of other Esfahani sights.
One thing you must try is Gaz, a sweet made of nougat with chopped pistachios, which originates from Esfahan.

SHIRAZ

About Shiraz
Shiraz Wikitravel
Shiraz Photos

Known for poetry, roses and wine (ironic, eh), Shiraz is a gem of a city. It used to be the capital of Iran, and as with pretty much everywhere in the country, it's has a lot of history in and around the city. Two of Irans most celebrated poets and mystics, Hafez and Saadi, were from Shiraz, and are buried here. The people of Shiraz have a reputation for being very friendly, so maybe you'll get that dinner invite here!

Persepolis

Although not actually in Shiraz, it's only about 40 miles away, so it's getting lumped in the category. Sorry, sights of Shiraz, you've been eclipsed. But what a thing to be eclipsed by, eh? Persepolis, or Takht-e-Jamshid in Persian, was a ceremonial capital of the second Iranian dynasty, and the earliest remains of it date back to about 518BC. Destroyed by Alexander the Great in 330BC, ruins are the only thing left of this magnificent and complex site. It's an amazing tourist destination - find out more here and here (and there's a LOT to find out, which is why I am leaving it for you to read! Aren't I nice?). There are some great photos on the second page of the second link, just click on the pictures bit under 'See Also'. As an aside, if you are into the historical and archaeological side of Iran, this site has a list of Iranian UNESCO sites. Some of them are great and again, there's a lot of history in these places, so I'd recommend having a look if it's your thing, because there's just too much to cover in one post.

Tombs of Saadi and Hafez

Saadi and Hafez are classic Persian poets, famous not only in Iran but also throughout the world. Hafez' tomb can be seen at the beginning of this section; as shown, it is a small pavilion, and inside are several of his verses, along with a marble tombstone. The tomb is inside a garden, close to the centre of the city and also has one of the best tea-houses in Shiraz, so it's worth a visit. Saadi's tomb is further away, but it is situated in a beautiful garden, so again, it's worth a visit. The walls are inscribed with his writings, and there is an underground pool where people can throw coins and make a wish. Both tombs are popular tourist attractions.

Shah Cheragh

Another site of bling, Shah Cheragh is a tomb of two brothers of the Imam Reza. You can see some of the dazzling mirror-work here.

Vakil Bazaar

One of the best places in Shiraz to buy handicrafts, this bazaar also has beautiful courtyards and bath houses. Go here if you want to gawp at some rugs, or even buy one! As with a lot of bazaars, it's a great place to wander, even if you don't buy, because of the awesome architecture and general feel of the place. Have a look.

I had trouble deciding exactly what to write and focus on, but I hope it's opened your eyes to some of the wonderful things Iran has to offer, and perhaps whetted your appetite a bit.

Tour operators/guides/hotels:

http://www.hotelyar.com/enHotelList.php - List of hotels around Iran
http://www.southtravels.com/middleeast/iran/ - More hotels in Iran
http://www.thundertour.com/index.htm - including skiing, trekking
http://www.iran-tours.com/index.html - including skiing
http://www.thetistravel.com/en/index.php - including nomad tours, birdwatching, caves, hiking, trekking
http://www.iraniantours.com/
http://www.destinationiran.com/
http://www.aryantour.com/index.htm - a guide called Hassan, can accompany you on tailor-made trips
http://english.pars-ecotour.com/index.php Ecological tours
http://www.intrepidtravel.com/destinations/iran
http://www.key2persia.com/ Lots of tours, some including climbing and hiking
http://www.exploreworldwide.com/worldwide/index.jsp
http://www.irannomadtour.com/index.asp Nomad tours
http://www.irantravel.biz/ Travel agency based in Iran
http://www.iranparadise.com/ Nomad, ski, eco, spa tours
http://www.araz.org/ Jeep safari, scuba-diving, rafting and camel tours
http://www.idt.ir/ Range of tours, mainly adventure, including paragliding and desert biking